Since I hail from the state where Krispy Kreme was born, I consider myself a doughnut purist.
But after visiting Dough, a bakery at the corner of Lafayette and Franklin avenues, my old-fashioned southern palate was taken to new sweet and spicy horizons.
Late in the afternoon on Monday it looked like many of the doughnuts had already been sold — an apparently common sight, according to recent reviews.
Fortunately, a twist on my favorite was still in stock: a chipotle chocolate-glazed doughnut. Normally, one doughnut is more than enough for me, but a bright red one fresh out of the kitchen beckoned as I stood at the register. It was a blood orange-glazed doughnut, and it took fried dough to another level.
The glaze had a bold, tangy flavor that made for a delicious contrast with the warm, sweet doughnut. A candied slice of blood orange on top only elevated the sweetness further. It was a real treat — one that nearly made my jaw lock up when followed with a cup of hot chocolate.
The more traditional chipotle chocolate doughnut was overshadowed by its citrusy counterpart, but still delicious. The glaze had a spicy finish that was not overwhelming; just enough to make this doughnut more memorable than a run of mill doughnut from any of the chains — even, dare I say it, Krispy Kreme. In fact, this complex spicy chocolate would not have been out of place as a glaze on any of the popular gourmet cupcake joints in Manhattan.
Still, Dough, which has only been open since December, isn't necessarily for everyone. As New York Magazine recently noted, the doughnuts are a bit dense — they aren’t the typical fluffy and light pastries that can be eaten by the dozen.
Being a purist, I was somewhat skeptical of a heavy-duty doughnut, but now I’m a convert. If you don’t mind eating one thick doughnut with bold flavors instead of several lighter ones that are all too familiar, then Dough is the way to go.