At Home in Stonehome Wine Bar

Despite a general lack of interest in highbrow drinking, I recently ended up at Stonehome Wine Bar.

I had called up my regular drinking buddy John Pasteur for a pint only to discover that my fellow inebriate was off the sauce. I figured he may have found Jesus or possibly decided to become a productive member of society, but unfortunately his rationale was infinitely more pathetic.

John had discovered the “4-Hour Body,” a book espousing the latest in dietary hocus pocus involving low carbohydrate intake, strange “eating exercises” and lots of dime-store Eastern philosophy about food and its relationship to sexual prowess. I assured my friend that no amount of lean proteins was going to turn him into Don Juan.

After a solid hour of merciless teasing I figured that we should at least have a glass of wine. He checked the silly little “4-Hour Body” bible for confirmation, and it was agreed that one four-ounce serving was acceptable.

I dusted off my peacoat, pulled on my cleanest pair of Levis, and headed down to Lafayette Avenue. Stonehome is a genuinely classy joint with equally impressive fare. The space is cramped but quite cozy, and the waitstaff is plentiful, engaged, and very accommodating. The decor is nothing special, but fortunately the food and wine choices are appealing enough to overlook the details.

The current selection is understandably robust and focused heavily on continental offerings with the occasional California or South American flare. I don’t drink wine often, but my palate usually calls for heavy and dry, making Cabernet an obvious choice. The bartenders knew their stuff and I was sipping a nice glass from Sonoma Valley in no time.

“We try to represent all of the varietals and throw in a few surprises,” bartender Greg Wilson said. “Sourcing from unique small producers is something we do a lot here.”

Stonehome was opened in 2004 by Rose Hermann and Bill Stenehjem, who continue to purchase the majority of the wine list. The bar has become something of an institution among BAM theatergoers and has managed to cultivate a dedicated following. 

Despite the name, it should be noted that the food menu at Stonehome is virtually unrivaled in Fort Greene. Head chef John Gibson provides a variety of entrees with a focus on seasonal items and straightforward bistro plating. The results are fantastic.

“People have really been obsessed with the chicken lately,” said Gibson. “They get pretty angry when we run out.”

No amount of prodding could get my diet-restricted friend to pour a second glass, which led to me drinking nearly an entire bottle on my own, something which I try to avoid most Monday nights. 

We left the bar satisfied and in good spirits, stopping along the way for a quick snack at the deli.  As I ordered my turkey club, John began performing a coordinated series of squats and lunges in order to “jump-start his metabolism.” I stared up at the Williamsburgh Savings Bank tower and munched quietly, unable to cope with the horror.

Stonehome is without a doubt one of the finest establishments in the neighborhood and was a welcome departure from the typical Brooklyn bar experience. It is sad to lose friends to responsible behavior, but occasionally there is an elegant silver lining.